Vestkystruten 2k24 - Day 3: Bunkers, Beaches, and the Winds of Agger

After the intensity of Day 2, we hoped Day 3 might offer a bit of a reprieve. The storm had passed, leaving behind clear skies and that fresh, crisp feeling that only comes after a downpour. As we set out from Thorsminde, the sky was a dramatic mix of clouds and sunshine, with the wind already picking up. We’ve learned on this trip that Denmark’s west coast always has a surprise up its sleeve. What started as a calm, peaceful ride along the coastline quickly turned into a battle with the winds—a force of nature that reminded us just how small we are in the grand scheme of things.

Agger was our goal for the day—a small town nestled between the North Sea and the fjord, offering a mix of history, natural beauty, and, we hoped, a bit of rest. But getting there would require more than just pedaling—it would mean facing down the elements once again and finding our rhythm in the ever-changing landscape.

The Journey

Day 3 began with our usual optimistic mantra: ‘Today, we’ll keep it short.’ But with the wind already howling as we left Thorsminde, we knew that even a shorter distance would be a challenge. The sky was a dramatic mix of clouds and sunshine, and the sea was wild, stirred up by the relentless wind.

We started by heading to the beach for a brief look at the ocean. Jana stayed with the bikes while I climbed the dune to snap a few photos. The wind made the sea look even more ferocious—almost like a preview of what lay ahead. The sight was both awe-inspiring and a bit intimidating, knowing we’d soon be battling that same force.

The first stretch out of Thorsminde wasn’t particularly enjoyable—ten monotonous kilometers along a busy road with no proper bike lane. The wind made every pedal stroke feel like we were stuck in an endless loop, battling to make any progress. It felt like we’d never reach the end of that road. But we knew that once we got through this part, the landscape would reward us.

Finally, we reached the long-awaited turnoff toward quieter paths. We passed by a farm and soon arrived at the small church in Trans. We stopped to take some photos, but just as we were getting set up, a van pulled up, needing to get by. ‘What a fucking asshole,’ I muttered, annoyed that we had to move. ‘Can’t he see we’re trying to take a picture here?’

But just as my frustration peaked, the driver got out and approached us with a smile. Turns out, the ‘asshole’ was actually a super nice guy who recognized us from YouTube. ‘Tomek, if you’re reading this, greetings to you,’ I joked, thinking back on the encounter. Jana said he looked like a mix between Paul Ripke and Schotti from Tatortreiniger, and she wasn’t wrong. Tomek and his family were traveling to Norway, and what started as an infuriating interruption quickly turned into a friendly, memorable encounter that lightened the mood of the tough morning.

As we continued, the wind only grew stronger. Jana struggled to keep her bike moving, with gusts so powerful that every turn felt like an uphill battle. The ride through the dunes should have been a highlight, offering breathtaking views of the North Sea and the rugged coastline, but the wind and blowing sand made it nearly impossible to fully appreciate the scenery. We had to stop often just to catch our breath, each pause feeling like a small victory against the elements.

We rode through Thy National Park, a place we remembered fondly from our previous trip. The landscape was just as stunning, but today, the wind made it difficult to enjoy. The path wound through the dunes, past the iconic Lodbjerg Fyr lighthouse, but even stopping for a photo became a challenge, with the wind threatening to knock us off balance at any moment.

The road to Thyborøn felt like it would never end. The ten-kilometer straightaway was visually stunning but oddly monotonous, a strange mix that made the ride feel even longer. We were relieved when we finally reached the ferry to Agger, but even the crossing seemed to drag on longer than expected, with fatigue making every minute feel like an eternity.

Once in Agger, we paused to reassess our plans. The past three days had taken a toll on us, with each day pushing us further than we’d originally planned. Our initial goal was to push on to Klitmøller, but the thought of another 40 kilometers after the day we’d just had was overwhelming. As we rode through Agger, Jana suggested, ‘Why don’t we just stay here? It’s nice enough.’ It didn’t take long for us to agree.

We found a campsite just outside of Agger, though it meant backtracking five or six kilometers from where we’d entered the town. Thankfully, the campsite had a cozy cabin available, and the idea of a rest day began to take shape. We’d covered around 60 kilometers—significantly less than the previous days—but the wind had made it feel like much more.

As we settled into the cabin, we reflected on the day. Deciding to stay in Agger and rest felt like the right choice, giving us a chance to recharge before continuing. Despite the challenges, the day had its rewards, with beautiful views and unexpected encounters that made it another memorable chapter in our journey.

Reflections

Day 3 was a strong reminder of the importance of flexibility—not just in our plans, but in our mindset. We started with a clear goal, but the relentless wind and the toll of the previous days forced us to reconsider what we could realistically achieve. It was a day that tested our patience and endurance, but it also offered moments of unexpected joy.

Our encounter with Tomek and his family was a perfect example of how quickly our perspective can shift. One moment, we were cursing the interruption; the next, we were laughing and chatting with someone who recognized us from our videos. It’s funny how often the things that initially annoy us end up being the highlights of the day. It reminded us that keeping an open mind and staying flexible can turn even the most frustrating moments into something positive.

The wind, though, was a relentless adversary. It’s hard to convey just how draining it is to ride against a force that’s constantly pushing you back. Every pedal stroke felt like a struggle, every kilometer a small victory. By the time we reached Agger, we were both mentally and physically exhausted, and the decision to stay put rather than push on was an easy one. We’ve learned that there’s no shame in adjusting our plans when circumstances change—sometimes, it’s the smartest thing you can do.

Jana put it best when she said, ‘It’s not about how far we go; it’s about how we feel when we get there.’ And she’s right. This trip isn’t just about covering miles; it’s about enjoying the journey, even when it’s tough. Sometimes that means pushing through, but other times it means knowing when to stop, take a breath, and regroup.

Day 3 was tough, but it was also rewarding. The views, the unexpected encounters, and the decision to give ourselves a break all contributed to a day we’ll remember not just for the challenges, but for the way we handled them. It’s days like this that remind us why we do this—why we keep coming back to the road, no matter how hard it gets.

Practical Tips

1. Battling Strong Winds:

• Expect the Unexpected: When cycling along coastal routes, especially in places like Denmark, always be prepared for strong winds. They can turn an otherwise straightforward ride into a grueling challenge. Plan your route with this in mind, and consider shorter distances on particularly windy days.
• Stay Low and Steady: When the wind is strong, try to keep a lower profile on the bike. This means leaning forward and gripping the handlebars firmly to maintain control. It might not make the wind disappear, but it can help you stay steady and reduce resistance.
• Take Breaks Often: Fighting the wind can be exhausting, so don’t hesitate to take frequent breaks. Stop to rest, hydrate, and refuel. Each pause is an opportunity to gather your strength for the next stretch.

2. Flexibility in Your Plans:

• Adjust Your Goals: It’s okay to change your plans based on how you’re feeling and the conditions you’re facing. On tough days, like the one we had, it’s important to recognize when pushing further might not be the best option. Be willing to stop early, take a rest day, or alter your route as needed.
• Listen to Your Body: The past three days pushed us more than we’d planned. Instead of stubbornly sticking to our original itinerary, we listened to our bodies and decided to stay in Agger. This flexibility not only helped us recover but also made the journey more enjoyable.

3. Embracing Unexpected Moments:

• Keep an Open Mind: Not every interaction or event will go as planned, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be a positive experience. Our encounter with Tomek and his family was a reminder that even the most frustrating interruptions can turn into memorable moments. Stay open to these surprises—they’re often the most rewarding part of the journey.
• Don’t Rush Through: Take the time to enjoy the scenery, meet new people, and appreciate where you are, even if the conditions aren’t perfect. We made it a point to stop at the church in Trans and take photos, which gave us a much-needed break and a chance to capture the moment.

4. Making the Most of Campsite Cabins:

• Consider a Cabin: When the weather is rough, or you just need a break, opting for a cabin at a campsite can be a great choice. It offers more comfort, a place to recharge your devices, and a much-needed mental break. After a tough day, having a cozy, dry place to stay made all the difference for us.
• Plan Ahead: If you think you might want to stay in a cabin, consider booking ahead or arriving early. Popular spots can fill up quickly, especially in peak season. Having a backup plan can ensure you’re not left scrambling at the end of a long day.